Sikkim, India - April 18, 2001
Spent another morning at the chaat house down the road eating masala dosa and chatting with the proprietor, Sonam. I have a bit of altitude cough and he hands me a big bag of cloves, telling me to suck on a small pinch 3 to 4 times per day. Sonam's an ayurvedic healer in his spare time and seems to have encyclopedic knowledge on the subject. It's only been half a day and my cough is under control and getting better!
I have a great view of the Eastern Himalaya range. Mount Kanchenjunga, which stands at 8534 metres, doubles as a Sikkimese protective deity. She stares at me every morning in stern mastery with all of her majestic beauty, demanding my attention and rightly so.
Enjoying Sikkim thoroughly - it's yet another jewel in India's rich and diverse tapesty. Security is tight due to this being a very sensitive boder area (Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan), so I have to renew my visa every 7 days and carry papers with me at all times. The people are kind and very soulful.
Playing a lot of music here and working on a new song in my room. A young girl, Dawa, approaches me in front of my guest house with a big smile to tell me that her family has enjoyed listening to me play music. She tells me that her parents actually dance and that it makes everyone in her family happy when I play. Perhaps one of the most incredible complements I could ever hope to receive...
It must be the altitude, but I am playing this tune over and over. I can't get it out of my head:
That's the way
Baby that's the way of the world now
Yes it is
That's the way it is
It ain't no game
We're living it every day now
Win or lose
It's the way it is today
Still trying to sort out the words and have to craft a middle part to tie it all together. This place has given me faith in how cool humanity can ultimately be. From the moment I stepped foot into town, I have been bowled over.
Decided to head over to Dharamsala next week to see Dan, Zoe & Tashi. Dan & I have been in contact via email since I arrived in India a month ago and now I get to see those guys for the first time since we met up in London about 10 months ago... mi Madre de dios!!